Hydro-boost on Ram 1500?

[Darell]

Anyone heard of a hydro-boost swap onto a 1/2 ton? In case you don't know, hydro-boost on a Dodge and Chev is what the 3/4 and 1 ton pickups use instead of the big, ugly vacuum booster. It takes power from the power-steering pump and provides a shit load more braking force than the vacuum booster can make. It is a common upgrade on GM 1/2 ton trucks.

I'm thinking the power steering pump and master cylinder should be all that's needed to work on the existing brake lines and calipers and hopefully ABS components. I need to find a 3/4 ton to compare side by side with mine as the manual doesn't have enough detail to distinguish between the two setups.

**** This would give clearance for the LX screw superchargers out there. ****

[daytonahemi392]

interesting idea...

[THEBIGCHEEZY]

is it the inlet thats cuasing the clearence issue? the hydratech is used by hotrodders, small unit and its universal

check out this write up
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157031

[dayton hemi]

http://www.truckintube.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=35&pos=82

[daytonahemi392]

did that truck start life as a 1500 or a 2500?

[dayton hemi]

did that truck start life as a 1500 or a 2500?

the way i read it 1500

[Darell]

The 2500 gas motor trucks still have a vacuum booster. Only the Cummins came with hydraulic boosters. SRT-10s have the same booster/master cylinder as mine.

[JohnnyHemi]

Anyone heard of a hydro-boost swap onto a 1/2 ton? In case you don't know, hydro-boost on a Dodge and Chev is what the 3/4 and 1 ton pickups use instead of the big, ugly vacuum booster. It takes power from the power-steering pump and provides a shit load more braking force than the vacuum booster can make. It is a common upgrade on GM 1/2 ton trucks.

I'm thinking the power steering pump and master cylinder should be all that's needed to work on the existing brake lines and calipers and hopefully ABS components. I need to find a 3/4 ton to compare side by side with mine as the manual doesn't have enough detail to distinguish between the two setups.

**** This would give clearance for the LX screw superchargers out there. ****

there are a ton of cars that use it not just heavy duty vehicles. Its alot more dangerous to work on though

[Darell]

there are a ton of cars that use it not just heavy duty vehicles. Its alot more dangerous to work on though

The cars that use it (ie Mustang) are for space savings and not really as a performance increase over vacuum units. The numbers I've found for Chev trucks are vac boosters will provided up to 900 psi hydraulic pressure, hydroboost units will do 2000 psi. They warn that even though the brake pedal is stiffer and has a much stronger feel, the rotors can burn up if you over do it. They can also blow out the seals in the calipers at the extreme. Specifically for racing, the holding power is no contest.

[Darell]

Its alot more dangerous to work on though

If you use OEM parts it's not dangerous, otherwise why would the factory do it?

[JohnnyHemi]

im not talking about for driving im talking about from a technicians point of view lol.

[Darell]

im not talking about for driving im talking about from a technicians point of view lol.

Please explain.

[JohnnyHemi]

just because of pressure. Not saying anything would happen to you. I assume you are lookin at a hyrdo boost for holding your truck at the line? instead of a trans brake?

[hemi1569]

I found this pic, i know it is a bit rough but i will try and get some more data.




Install the hydraulic booster (2) and tighten the mounting nuts to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.) .
Install the booster push rod, washer and clip onto the brake pedal.
Install the master cylinder (3) on the mounting studs. and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.) .
Install the brake lines to the master cylinder and tighten to 19 Nm (170 inch lbs.) .
Install the hydraulic booster line bracket onto the master cylinder mounting studs.
Install the master cylinder mounting nuts and tighten to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.) .
Install the hydraulic booster pressure lines (1&5) to the bracket and booster.
Tighten the pressure lines to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) . NOTE: Inspect O-rings on the pressure line fittings to insure they are in good condition before installation. Replace O-rings if necessary.
Install the return hose (4) to the booster.
Bleed base brake system.
Fill the power steering pump with fluid. CAUTION: MOPAR (MS-9602) ATF+4 is to be used in the power steering system. No other power steering or automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the system. Damage may result to the power steering pump and system if any other fluid is used, and do not overfill.
Bleed the hydraulic booster.

[daytonahemi392]

I wonder what timong cover they used on that truck. The alt and air cond. are on the wrong sides. And definetly a custom bracket on the alt.

[johnnyk416]

you can get the hydrobooster at Napa it is $199, if you are planning on doing this I would also change over to the calipers also. As mentioned previously you may blow the seals in the old ones that are only ment to handle the pressure of the vacuum booster.

[Mr.Hemi]

You guys wish you had 2500 brakes.
1 of the few really great upgrades over the 1500.
140,000 miles I brake change.

[Darell]

You guys wish you had 2500 brakes.
1 of the few really great upgrades over the 1500.
140,000 miles I brake change.

Not brakes, just booster.